HelloFresh’s budget subsidiary surprised me with its basic but tasty vegetarian meal selection.

As a vegan, my choices for plant-centric meal kits are, let's say, limited, compared to the extremely omnivorous WIRED reviewer Matthew Korfhage, who has tested nearly two dozen meal kits with everything from spicy shrimp to garlic filet mignon and plum pork loin.

I've tested several plant-based meal kits, which, unlike normal meal kits, are often much more expensive than my usual produce-heavy weekly grocery haul, and also seriously limited in their rotating plant-based or vegetarian options.

All this to say, I was pleasantly surprised when I tried EveryPlate's vegetarian fare for a week. Each meal came to $7 per serving for two people for four meals, but oftentimes the leftovers ended up stretching over several meals. (There's a discount running at the time of writing, with each serving going for $3—which is almost ramen pricing these days.) In total, my first box of four ...